Plants Care – Plant Shop

Alocasia Sarian

Top Tips & Info
Care Difficulty : Easy to Moderate
We recommend keeping your Sarian in bright, indirect light, avoiding exposure to the summer sun. An hour or two of autumn/winter sunlight is highly beneficial, as long as you keep an eye out for potential droughts. Overhead lighting is key for this species, as locations too far from the window may cause lopsided growth.
Keep the soil mostly moist, allowing the top third to dry out in between waters. Avoid water-logging or extended periods of soggy-soil as both may weaken its overall health.
Introduce a pebble tray or humidifier whilst the heaters are operating to counteract the dry air. Wash or gently hose the foliage each month to increase the light-capturing efficiency and hydrate its leaves.
Fertilise using a ‘Houseplant’ labelled feed every four waters in the spring and summer, reducing this to every six in the colder months.
Keep an eye out for Spider Mites that’ll form webs on the under-leaves of the plant.
Repot every two or three years using ‘Houseplant’ labelled compost; introduce some grit for larger specimens, to strengthen their root system.

Baby Tear

Baby’s tears have a vigorous growth habit. It grows best outdoors in moist, well-drained soil in a partial to full shade spot. Despite its reputation for aggressive growth, baby’s tears do not respond well to harsh sunlight or dry conditions. But in rich, well-drained, moist soil, the plant sends out runners and spreads throughout the area. This plant remains evergreen in warm climates (USDA Zones 10-11), but will die back in zone 9, reappearing in spring. It is not perennial in colder zones. As a potted plant, baby’s tears grow easily in a standard potting mix.

Outdoors, baby’s tears have almost no serious pest or disease problems. Indoors, it may be affected by some of the same pests that affect many houseplants—aphids, mites, and mealybugs.

Light

Baby’s tears plants dislike intense direct sunlight, which may scorch leaves. They look their best in bright, filtered light. Baby tears plants can thrive under artificial lights indoors. Outdoors, place it in a shadier location.

Soil

A rich soil amended with humus, compost, or manure is sufficient for baby’s tears plants. It will also help to regulate the moisture level for plants. Commercial potting soil is suitable for growing baby tears as a houseplant or in a container garden.

Water

Baby’s tears plants are thirsty plants that never like to dry out. If you allow your plants to dry out, you’ll notice a dramatic wilting. Water as soon as you notice wilting, and within a day, they should recover. Baby’s tears houseplants will require slightly less water in the winter months. It’s fine for the soil’s surface to be dry, but the soil around the roots should be moist. However, do not let the roots sit in water, which can promote root rot. Make sure the soil stays moist but drains well.

Temperature and Humidity

As an outdoor specimen, baby’s tears plant grows best in a climate that remains between 50 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher the ambient temperature, the more attention the gardener must pay to light and humidity. Baby’s tears plants can tolerate a light frost, but freezing temperatures that sometimes occur in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone 9, may kill the plant’s top growth. The plant can regenerate after the transitional climate warms up again.

Baby’s tears appreciate high humidity with at least 75 percent humidty. These plants are ideal for a steamy bathroom or kitchen. If you live in a drier environment, these plants will appreciate life in a humid terrarium.

Bromeliad

These bromeliads can be top heavy, placing in ceramic or clay pots will secure base.
They like to hold water in the base of their leaves - when watering, apply water from
above to fill these 'cups'.

	Bright location; avoid direct sunlight.
	Water thoroughly, discarding any excess water. Apply water to the leaves as well. Allow top inch of soil to dry out before watering.
	Fertilize bimonthly.
	Height: 90 cm Spread: 80 cm
	Temperature: 15° – 25°C / 59° – 77°F

Caladium

They can be planted directly in the garden during spring or started indoors four to six weeks before the average frost date. Soil temperature is an important consideration, as planting too early outdoors can cause tubers to rot

These plants thrive in moist, well-drained soil and are generally happier in partial shade. When you plant caladiums, you should plant them about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) deep and 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart. If you’re growing caladiums indoors, keep them in a warm room with plenty of light until outside temperatures are warm enough to transplant. Caladium tubers should be planted about 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) deep with the knobs, or eye buds, facing up. While this may sometimes be difficult to distinguish in some varieties, those that are planted upside down will still emerge, only slower. Caladium Plant Care The most important factors in caladium care are moisture and feeding. Fertilizer will help strengthen the plants in order to produce adequate tubers for the following growing season. Caladiums need to be watered on a regular basis, especially during dry conditions. In fact, watering them on a weekly basis is recommended. Caladiums that are grown in containers should be checked daily and watered as needed. Applying mulch around caladium plants will help to conserve and maintain moisture, even in containers.

Since caladiums are considered tender perennials, they must be dug up in the fall and stored indoors over winter in cold climates. Once their foliage yellows and begins falling over, caladiums can be carefully lifted from the ground. Place the plants in a warm, dry location for at least a couple weeks to dry out. Then cut off the foliage, place the tubers in a netted bag or box, and cover in dry peat moss. Store the tubers in a cool, dry location. Once spring returns, you can replant outdoors. If you are growing caladiums in containers, they can be overwintered indoors.

Canna Lily Canova

Growing Cannas

While typically grown as annuals in cooler regions, given the proper conditions canna lilies can color the garden year after year. They like plenty of heat, so place them in full sun. They can also tolerate partial shade.

Cannas like moist conditions too, but will tolerate nearly any well-draining soil that is either neutral or slightly acidic. They appreciate bog-like conditions as well. The soil should also be rich in organic matter.

When growing cannas in the garden, placing them in mixed borders or group plantings will offer the most dramatic effect.

How to Plant Canna Lilies

Cannas can be planted outdoors in warm climates or containers in other areas. During spring, when planting of canna lily plant, wait until the threat of frost has passed. Groups of cannas should be planted about a foot or two (31-61 cm.) apart. While technically they don’t have a top or bottom, most canna rhizomes can be planted horizontally with the eyes facing up. Cover the rhizomes with 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm.) of soil. Water well and apply a layer of mulch to retain moisture.

Canna Lily Care

Once established, cannas need to be kept moist. They also require monthly fertilizer that is relatively higher in phosphate for continual bloom. It’s usually necessary to dig up and store canna rhizomes in the fall. They can also be overwintered in pots and allowed to grow throughout the winter season. In spring they can be replanted or moved back outdoors. You can also divide the plant during this time if necessary.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen are fairly easy to grow but it may be difficult to provide the right conditions to get them to rebloom. Many people just treat the florist’s cyclamen as a short-lived, temporary indoor plant.

Being adapted to a Mediterranean climate, this plant comes into growth in the autumn, flowers in winter or early spring (the rainy season) and goes dormant for the entire summer (when it’s hot and dry).
Cyclamen prefer bright indirect light and need cool temperatures. An east window is often a good spot to keep a cyclamen but in the winter in Wisconsin a southern exposure may be better. Ideal daytime temperatures are 60-65ºF and night temperatures around 50ºF, although today’s hybrids can be maintained over a wider temperature range after purchase with good performance. Individual flowers as well as the blooming season will be extended if the plants can be kept cooler. To encourage continuous flowering, remove any spent blossoms by twisting the stem and pulling sharply to remove it cleanly from the base.

These plants also need high humidity and moist soil to continue blooming. Cyclamen should be watered thoroughly when the soil looks and feels dry on the surface. Avoid watering the crown or center of the plant, which may rot if it remains too wet. Many people prefer to bottom water, or stand the pot in water for 15 minutes. Allow the soil to almost dry out before watering again. Plants that are kept too moist or too dry will develop yellow leaves (although this and bud blasting or aborting may also be caused by hot, dry conditions or insufficient light, too). The foliage should remain firm and erect; if it seems soft, then the plant probably needs to be watered. Set the pot on a tray of wet gravel to provide extra humidity, and keep the plants away from warm drafts. Cyclamens do need fertilizer but too much will promote lush growth that is more susceptible to disease. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer or houseplant food for blooming plants every two weeks when in active growth.

Cyclamen leaves and flowers grow in a rosette from a tuberous base. In pots, the tubers will grow up to 6 inches in diameter. In late spring the plants stop blooming and go into dormancy for two to three months. At this time their leaves begin to fade and drop off. Reduce watering and fertilization at this time. You can move your dormant cyclamen outside for the summer, but don’t let it stay wet while leafless, and be sure to bring it inside before first frost. Alternatively, gradually withhold water after the flowers finish blooming. When the leaves are withered, remove the tuber from the soil and store it in dry vermiculite at about 50ºF for 6-12 weeks. After this summer dormancy, repot the tuber in well-draining soil mix. Place the tuber so the upper half is above the surface. Begin watering again when the tuber starts forming new leaves, and fertilize until flower buds form.
Cyclamen do not have many pests, but can occasionally be attacked by aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, or thrips. These can be controlled with insecticidal soap or pesticides labeled for use on houseplants. Plants infested with cyclamen mite are best discarded, since this pest is extremely difficult to control.
– Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin – Madison

DAHLIA

How to plant
Most dahlias need to be staked and you may want to plant a sturdy stake before you plant the dahlia. If you put the stake into the ground after the plant is growing, take care to avoid damaging the tuber or the root system. Tomato cages can also be a simple approach to staking.

Put the tuber in a hole several inches deep with the “eye” (like a potato sprout) on the tuber facing up. The eye is the point on the shoulder, or crown, of the tuber from which the plant grows.

If you are planting a number of dahlias in the same location, they should be separated by about 2 feet to give each plant room to grow.

Protecting your plants from pests
Small dahlia plants are susceptible to slug damage. It is a good idea to manually remove slugs early each morning or to protect them with a commercial slug killer.

Japanese beetles seem to enjoy eating dahlia blooms just when they are ready for a bouquet. One of the best methods of control is to manually remove the beetles into a bucket of soapy water.

Other insects can become a problem if you would like your blooms to be “perfect!” If that is the case, you might want to consider using an insecticidal soap or a commercial pesticide. Follow label directions carefully if you choose to do that.

Watering and fertilizing

Young dahlia plants do not need a lot of water; in fact, excessive water can lead to rotting of the plant. For larger plants, a good rule of thumb is to water if the rainfall is less than one inch in seven days. Pots require more regular watering.

The best strategy for fertilizing is to begin with a soil test to determine pH and the specific soil needs. Lacking that information, the plants will generally benefit from regular treatments with a water soluble or granular fertilizer. Traditional wisdom for dahlias is to treat with a high nitrogen fertilizer through the middle of the season but minimize nitrogen at the end of the season.

Maintaining your plants
There is a substantial regimen that can be used for maintaining plants for show blooms. For the simple enjoyment of spectacular dahlias in your garden, there are two relatively simple actions that will enhance the appearance of the plant. First is tying the plant to the stake several times as it grows. The first tie should secure the lower portion of the plant’s stalk to the stake. Subsequent ties should secure the branches. A simple alternative to tying is to use a tomato cage to support the plant. Then, no tying may be required.

Second is disbudding. Remove the outer two buds from the three that develop at the end of each branch. While that reduces the total number of flowers, many flowers remain and those show up well on the plant. If all three buds are left on the stem, the blooms will tend to be covered up and can be lost in the plant. You can also remove some of the shoots that form along the branch to have stems that can be used in tall vases for elegant bouquets.

End of the season

Your dahlias will continue to bloom prolifically right up until frost. A heavy frost will kill the plant and leave you with a decision on your next step. You can do nothing with the plant. You will then need to plan on a visit to the local auction in the spring for the following year’s plants. Or, you can dig and discover that the plant has produced a half a dozen or more tubers like the one with which you started. If you wish, those tubers can be stored and grown by you and a couple friends next spring!

DIANTHUS-KAHORI

Most dianthus flowers are easy to grow and can thrive in a range of conditions. They bloom best when given plenty of sun, but they don’t like the high heat of mid-summer. Deadheading the plants after their first bloom can help ensure a second bloom later in summer or early in the fall.

The mounding shape and long blooming time of dianthus plants make them welcome additions to any container garden. In garden beds, place dianthus at the front and along borders so you can appreciate their pleasant clove fragrance. You can also add dianthus plants to a butterfly and hummingbird garden, as the flowers attract both with their nectar.

Another option is to include dianthus in an alpine or rock garden, where they thrive in the fast-draining soil. Dianthus plants are resistant to deer, though the same can’t be said for rabbits.

Light
Full sun is important for thriving plants, so choose a location that gets at least six hours of light each day. Plants that don’t get enough light can see a reduction in blooms or flower vibrancy.

Soil
Stem rot can be a problem in dianthus plants if their soil doesn’t drain well. If the soil in your garden is heavy clay, consider containers or raised beds for your plants instead. Additionally, dianthus plants like a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH. If your soil pH is below 7.0, correct the acidity with an application of dolomitic limestone (fireplace ashes can also increase soil alkalinity). It’s fine to use mulch to keep weeds under control but avoid letting the mulch crowd around the crowns of dianthus to avoid rot.

Water
Dianthus flowers need weekly watering. Aim to give plants 1 inch of water per week, but avoid water-logging the soil.

Temperature and Humidity
These plants can tolerate a light frost but don’t like a deep freeze. If temperatures will be dipping below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, cover plants with a frost blanket to protect them. The flowers can also go dormant in consistently hot summer temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fertilizer
Dianthus plants are light feeders and won’t need much in the way of traditional fertilizer. A shovelful of compost worked into the soil once a year is enough to nourish the plants.

Dracaena Plant

Dracaena plant care involves keeping the soil of houseplant dracaena moist, but never soggy. Drooping or yellowing leaves indicate over-watering or poor drainage. Learning how to care for a dracaena includes finding well-draining soil in which to grow your houseplant dracaena.

Appropriate fertilization is also a part of how to care for a dracaena. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Reduce fertilization to once a month during fall. When growing a dracaena plant, stop feeding during winter months, as the plant benefits from a period of dormancy. When growing a dracaena plant, locate it in brightly filtered light, such as through a sheer curtain in front of a sunny window.

Room temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) are best during the day, with night temperatures about ten degrees cooler. However, the dracaena is forgiving of temperatures, as long as they are not too cold.

Ensete Planter

Plants may be grown outdoors during the growing season (either directly in the ground or in containers), but must be brought indoors for overwintering or they will not survive. Plants are best grown in organically rich, medium moisture, well-drained soil in full sun. Plants tolerate and often appreciate some part shade or light filtered sun in the heat of the day. Plants need consistently moist soils that do not dry out. Fertilize plants regularly during growing season. For containers, use a well-drained potting soil mix. Keep container soils consistently moist but not wet. Outdoor plants must be overwintered indoors, either in a sunroom/greenhouse or by forcing plants into dormancy. Options for overwintering include:

(1) Bring container plant indoors in fall before first frost and place container in a large sunny room for overwintering as a houseplant, with reduced water and fertilization;

(2) If container plant is too large to bring inside as a houseplant, cut foliage back to 6-8” in fall after first frost, and store container in a cool, dark, frost-free corner of the basement until spring, with periodic addition of a touch of moisture as needed in winter to prevent the soils from totally drying out;

(3) If container plant is too heavy or too large to bring inside, remove plant from container in fall before first frost, wrap roots in plastic and store in a cool, dark, frost-free corner of the basement until spring (foliage may be trimmed back or left on the plant and allowed to brown up in the normal course);

(4) If growing plants directly in the ground, dig, wrap roots, trim back the leaves and store as in option #3 above. After flowering and fruiting, the pseudostem dies. Propagate by seed or tissue culture.

Gerbera

Plants thrive in a position with full sun and sandy soil. A little compost added at planting will encourage good flower growth. With newly sown seeds, a well-draining propagation mix is a must, as is bright indirect light.

Crown rot is a common problem with gerbera daisies, which is caused by planting the crowns too deeply. The crown should be visible above the soil and allowed to dry out between each watering. Plants can be mulched, but care must be taken that mulch does not cover the crown. If you live in a wet or humid climate or have heavy soil, try planting gerbera daisies in well-draining pots instead.

Gerbera daisies are susceptible to fungal diseases, although older varieties less so. Fungal sprays do not generally prevent crown rot, so correct planting and watering are essential for gerbera daisy care. Make sure you plant them with adequate spacing and in high light areas. A little bit of light shade in high summer is alright, but without full, direct light the plants will get leggy and pale and not produce nearly as many blooms. Water in the morning so the leaves can dry out during the day to lessen the risk of rot and fungal diseases. Gerbera daisy care can also be enhanced by using a micro-nutrient liquid fertilizer such as a seaweed or fish emulsion. Keep an eye out for caterpillars and leaf miners too. Spray, if needed, with an organic spray such as pyrethrum or neem oil. Growing gerbera daisies can have some challenges, but it is a wonderful reward when those big, happy flowers bloom.

GERANIUMS ZONAL TANGO

Growing on
Optimum light levels for production of Tango zonal geraniumsare between 3,500 and 5,000 foot-candles. The plants can tolerate higher levelsif day temperatures in the greenhouse are kept below 75° F. Hanging othercrops directly above zonal geraniums can reduce light intensity andsignificantly reduce growth and flowering. If baskets need to be hung above thecrop, try to minimize the number of baskets and make sure the shadows moveacross the benches and are not stationary.

To produce nicely mounded plants that are highly branched,plants should be sprayed with Florel at 350 ppm about 10-14 days afterplanting. Plants at this time should be well-established, actively growing andunder no moisture or temperature stress. Most compact Tango varieties, or thosegrowing in small pots with a fast turn-round time, usually only need one Florelapplication. More medium-vigorous varieties (Tango, Tango White, Lavender,Lavender Pink, etc.) or those growing in larger containers do well with two oreven three applications applied about 7-10 days apart. Stop using Florelapproximately 6-8 weeks before sale since Florel aborts flower buds and keepsthe plant more vegetative. If growth control is needed in the later stages ofproduction, use Cycocel sprays at 750-1,000 ppm. Try to avoid very late spraysof growth retardants to prevent small flower heads on short flower stalks.

Keeping the pH above 6.0 is critical for maximizing growthand preventing iron and manganese toxicity. Alternating ammonium-containingfertilizers with thosecontaining primarily calcium, magnesium and potassium nitrate will produceexcellent plants and help to moderate pH swings. Start fertilizing with 250-275ppm nitrogen and try to keep the EC of the potting mix around 2.0-2.5 mS/cm (insaturated extract) throughout production.

Pests and Diseases
Tango geraniums have relatively few insect and diseaseproblems compared to many other greenhouse crops, although growers might runacross problems during various stages of production. Thrips can attack anddamage flowers and should be controlled as plants go into flowering. Aphids canbecome severe if the plants have not been scouted regularly or have not beentreated with Marathon or another systemic insecticide.

Haworthia

Like other succulents, these plants need bright light and adequate moisture in the summer with relatively drier conditions in the winter. Avoid overwatering, but don’t let them dry out completely. Also, plan to fertilize in the spring and summer months when the plant is actively growing.

Outdoors, haworthias generally do best in slightly sheltered locations rather than in full sunlight. This makes them quite easy to grow as houseplants. If you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with haworthia. They can be grown in a variety of containers, but it’s best to choose a container that has adequate drainage holes.

Light
Haworthia species like bright light but not exceptionally strong direct sunlight. In their native environment, they are often found in the slight shade of a rock or other object. They can tolerate direct morning sun, but harsh afternoon rays can burn their foliage. White, red, or yellow leaves usually signifies too much sun. But if a plant isn’t getting enough light, its green color will fade. Indoors, haworthias do best near an east- or west-facing window.

Soil
These plants like a sandy or gravelly soil with excellent drainage. Use a cactus potting mix or another very fast-draining potting soil intended for container plants. To improve soil drainage, mix the soil with perlite, aquarium gravel, or pumice.

Water
Water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out during the spring and summer months, but make sure the soil is never waterlogged. In the fall and winter, reduce watering to just enough to keep the leaves plump. Never allow water to collect in the rosette, as this can lead to rot.

Temperature and Humidity
Haworthia species like warm temperatures between 70 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer and cool temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. They can be damaged when temperatures fall to 40 degrees Fahrenheit and lower. Humidity isn’t an issue for this plant. What it does require is good ventilation, especially at night when it takes in carbon dioxide for photosynthesis.

Fertilizer
Follow label instructions to fertilize haworthia during the spring and summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the fall and winter.

Hibiscus

Growing hibiscus is an easy way to add a tropical flair to your garden. When you know how to care for hibiscus plants, you will be rewarded with many years of lovely flowers. Let’s look at some tips on how to care for hibiscus. Growing Hibiscus in Containers Many people who are growing a hibiscus plant choose to do so in a container. This allows them to move the hibiscus plant to ideal locations, depending on the time of year. Provide the plants with at least six hours of sunlight, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms. Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do.

Temperatures

When you care for a hibiscus, you should remember that hibiscus flowers best in temperatures between 60-90 F. (16-32 C.) and cannot tolerate temps below 32 F. (0 C.). In the summer, your hibiscus plant can go outside, but once the weather starts to get near freezing, it’s time for you to bring your hibiscus indoors.

Watering

When hibiscus are in their blooming stage, they require large amounts of water. Your hibiscus will need daily watering in warm weather. But once the weather cools, your hibiscus needs far less water, and too much water can kill it. In the winter, water your hibiscus only when the soil is dry to the touch.

Fertilizing

A growing hibiscus plant needs lots of nutrients in order to bloom well. In the summer, use a high potassium fertilizer. You can either use a diluted liquid fertilizer one a week, a slow release fertilizer once a month, or you can add a high potassium compost to the soil. In the winter, you don’t need to fertilize at all. These are the basics for how to care for hibiscus plants in your garden. As you can see, they are a easy maintenance, high impact flower that will make a garden in any part of the world look like a tropical paradise.

Hosta Francee

All hosta plants are a great choice for low-maintenance landscaping, and Frances Williams hosta should not give you too much trouble as long as you offer it the proper lighting and water care.

Remove its flower stalks after they bloom in early summer, as there’s no sense in the plant using up energy on seed production. Use mulch to help retain moisture around the roots or protect the plant during the winter months—just make sure to keep the dirt away from the crown of the plant in order to minimize the chance of crown rot. If you wish to divide the plant (in the case that its growth is becoming too large, or you simply wish for more hosta), do so in the early spring once the ground is soft enough to be worked.

Light
Frances Williams hosta plants love a lot of shade and should be planted in a spot that gets at least partial—if not full—shade all day. with shade is a must. Overall, you should aim for at least six hours of shade a day. If it receives too much light, your plant’s leaves will lack color or variegation.

Soil
All hosta plants do well in a soil mixture that is well-draining and rich in organic nutrients. If you find the soil in your landscape is lacking, you can mix humus into the planting bed to create a well-drained loam. You can also add organic matter to the planting bed to increase the nutrients available to your plant.

Water
Water your Frances Williams hosta deeply and regularly, providing at least an inch of water per week. If your climate is especially warm or you’re experiencing drought-like conditions, you should water your plant more frequently, as often as every other day. If the plant suffers from a lack of water, it could go into drought-induced dormancy.

Temperature and Humidity
Hosta plants are perennials, meaning they need at least six weeks of temperatures below 42 degrees Fahrenheit to achieve dormancy. Once dormant, the plants can withstand temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit, especially if covered by a layer of snow. Additionally, the plant is not picky about its humidity levels.

Fertilizer
Host plants do best when fed with organic compost in the early spring and again throughout the growing season if you’d like. If you choose to use a store-bought fertilizer, choose an organic blend geared towards perennials, like a fish emulsion.

Kalanchoe

Culture
Kalanchoe grows best in full sun and a well-drained potting media. Kalanchoe will tolerate bright indoor light levels well. However, plants tend to get spindly in low light conditions. Kalanchoe can be damaged by over watering. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Fertilize actively growing plants with any houseplant fertilizer once a month. Ideal temperatures are 45-65 °F at night and 50-70 °F during the day. Cool night temperatures prolong flower life.

Reblooming Kalanchoe
With good care, kalanchoes may be grown to rebloom the next season. After flowering, shift the plant to a slightly larger pot. Kalanchoes are succulents that grow best in a well-drained and well- aerated potting soil, such 60% peat moss and 40% perlite. Cut back tall growth and old flower stems. Keep well watered in a sunny, warm window. After danger of frost, move outdoors to a bright, lightly shaded spot for the summer. Gradually adjust them to outdoor conditions, so tender leaves will not burn. Bring back indoors before the first frost or 3 months before desired bloom time.

Kalanchoes, like poinsettias, require short day lengths (long nights) for flower bud development. Natural day lengths between October 1 and March 1 allow flower buds to form. During this time, keep the plant in a room where lights are not turned on during the naturally dark hours or control day length by placing the plant in a closet in late afternoons and then bringing it out to a high light environment each morning. About six weeks of natural winter day lengths are required for flower buds to form. Natural winter day lengths will supply kalanchoe with a 14 to16-hour night period. Temperatures above 80 °F during the long night period can result in a “heat delay”, inhibiting flower development. After the flower buds are large enough to be seen above the foliage, day length is no longer crucial. At this time, place plants in any location regardless of night lighting. Plants exposed to naturally short day lengths in early October should begin flowering by January (i.e. approximately 12 weeks from start of long nights).

Propagation
Start with clean and sterile containers and rooting media. A 6- to 8-inch plastic pot can be used to root several cuttings. Recycled pots should be washed thoroughly using a household cleaner and disinfectant. A good rooting medium consists of 50% peat moss and 50% perlite. Normally, peat moss and perlite don’t need sterilization when new. Propagate from herbaceous stem cuttings in spring or early summer. Use vegetative shoots not flowering shoots for best rooting. Terminal cuttings for propagation should be two- to three-inches long with two pairs of leaves. Remove the bottom leaves from the cutting. No rooting hormone is needed. Allow the cutting to callus for several days before inserting into the rooting medium. Place the pot indoors in bright, indirect light and in a closed large plastic bag to maintain high levels of humidity. Cuttings should be established enough to transplant in 14 to 21 days.

Lavender English

Dress your garden with the fragrance of English lavender. These herbs boast wonderfully perfumed leaves in shades of gray-green that bring a cooling hue to plantings. Flowers add classic purple when plants are in bloom. Both leaves and flowers of English lavender are intensely fragrant. This is probably the most popular lavender grown, and it brings quintessential lavender fragrance and looks to the garden.

These fragrant perennials have a sunny disposition. Give them a spot in full sun for best flowering. The plants prefer well-drained soil year-round, especially in winter. Poorly draining winter soils quickly kill English lavender. Soil should also be alkaline. Take a soil test to see where your soil pH falls.

Light
Grow English lavender in full sun. Shady locations usually cause the plant to become leggy produce fewer blooms. In very hot climates, though, the plants respond well to some shade in the heat of the afternoon.

Soil
English lavender must be planted in a relatively sandy or gritty but very well-draining soil. Very humusy, damp soils frequently cause root rot. Strive for a soil similar to its native Mediterranean region, where the soil is dry and infertile. Adding organic material to the soil is not only unnecessary but might cause problems.

Water
Young plants should be watered once every other day for the first week. Once established, they are quite drought-tolerant and don’t like too much water, which could inhibit their ability to bloom. Water mature plants about once per week or so based on your climate, increasing the frequency to about every four days after flower buds form to promote a healthy harvest.

Temperature and Humidity
These plants grow best in conditions that are warm but not oppressively hot. They prefer relatively dry climates and respond poorly to high humidity.

Fertilizer
Feeding is usually not necessary with English lavender. Fertilizing English lavender may inhibit its ability to flower.

Lily Hybrid

During active growth, water freely—especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet. Read more about mulching.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from planting until 6 weeks after flowering.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not bloom more than once per season, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
After the lily blooms, you can also remove just the stem itself. However, do NOT remove leaves until they have died down and turned brown in fall. It’s very important not to cut back the leaves until the end of their season because hey help provide nourishment to the bulb for next season’s blooms.
Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates. See your local frost dates.
If your region doesn’t have snow cover, keep soil moist in winter.
When lily shoots grow through the mulch in the spring, start to remove it gradually.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift the plants and divide the clumps. Replant the new bulbs adding some compost.

lipstick mona lisa

Place your plant in a bright location and you can expect flowers all spring and summer. Water: Water thoroughly spring through fall, allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Keep the soil slightly drier in winter when growth is slower. Wrinkled leaves are a sign of dry soil.

Mandevilla

Mandevilla plants are fairly easy to care for as long as you get their growing conditions right. The vines thrive in lots of light, warmth, and moisture, so plan to water yours whenever the soil begins to dry out, and feed your plant during the growing season.

Light
These vines grow and flower best in full sun, meaning at least 6 hours of direct light on most days. However, they will tolerate some shade and might even appreciate shelter from the hot afternoon sun at the peak of summer. A perk to growing mandevilla vines in containers is the ability to move the plant out of the harsh sun as needed so the foliage doesn’t get scorched.

Soil
Mandevilla vines need sandy, well-draining soil with plenty of organic material mixed in. A good potting mix is a combination of peat moss, sand, and leaf mold. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH is best, though the plant can also tolerate slightly alkaline soil.

Water
Unlike many flowering plants, the mandevilla species can withstand some dryness while continuing to flower. That said, they prefer a consistent level of moisture, so aim to keep the soil damp but not soggy. Water the plant slowly to give the soil time to soak up the moisture, and spray the leaves as well to knock off any pests and raise the humidity around the plant.

Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm temperatures and high humidity. Temperatures should be at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and no lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night for mandevilla to be planted outside. If you live in a dry climate, regularly misting your plants will help to keep humidity levels up.

Fertilizer
Fertilize your vine in spring with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer. Alternatively, you could use a liquid fertilizer at half-strength every two weeks from spring to fall. It also can be helpful to mix some compost into the soil to improve nutrition levels.

Marigold

Marigolds are an easy and beautiful annual to grow—even the smallest green thumbs can excel. Marigolds reward budding gardeners’ efforts with vibrant gold and copper flowers flourishing in their flower beds. The popularity of this flower is likely due to its ability to brightly bloom all summer long, attracting pollinators and color-loving gardeners alike.

You can reap these rewards in your own garden with little effort. Whether you grow them indoors from seeds or plant seedlings outdoors, marigolds are easy to grow and require little to no care.

When caring for marigolds, less is more. Following a few simple care instructions will keep your marigolds happy and healthy all summer long:

Allow the soil to dry out between waterings, then water thoroughly.
Water marigolds at the base of the plant.
Avoid a profusion of foliage and fewer flowers by not fertilizing soil after sowing seeds.
Deadheading is not necessary. But if you choose to deadhead your marigold blooms, you will keep your plants producing throughout the summer.
Limit weed growth by putting down a layer of mulch between marigold plants.

Noveity Petunia

Temperature
Crop temperatures should begin at 55-60°F. Then increase to day temperatures of 65-75°F and maintain night temperatures at 55-60°F.
Lighting
High light levels or full sun is encouraged.
Watering
Watering is key, as overwatering will lead to root rot. A little-and-often regime is encouraged when plants are young.
Feeding
Are heavy feeders and the use of slow-release fertilizer is recommended as they grow, in addition to liquid fertilizer. Keep pH between 5.5 and 5.8. Maintaining adequate fertilizer is essential to create Heartbeat’s heart patterns.
Growth regulators
Is responsive to daminozide (B-Nine), which can be sprayed at a rate of 2,500-5,000 ppm. With Heartbeat being naturally compact, it will require less than other petunias. A Bonzi drench can be applied at 1-3 ppm as needed. Traditionally, Surfinia grows rapidly in high light and high heat.

Osteospermum

Plants prefer a warm and sunny position and rich soil, although they tolerate poor soil, salt or drought well. Modern cultivars flower continuously when watered and fertilised well, and dead-heading is not necessary, because they do not set seed easily. If planted in a container, soil should be prevented from drying out completely. If they do, the plants will go into “sleep mode” and survive the period of drought, but they will abort their flower buds and not easily come back into flower. Moreover, roots are relatively susceptible to rotting if watered too profusely after the dry period.

Phalaenopsis Multi Waterfall

If you are lucky enough to have a Phalaenopsis, you are about to enter the wonderful world of growing orchids! Phals are one of the easiest orchids to grow in the home. If you follow a few basic requirements, these plants will reward you with several months of beautiful blooms.

Water
How often you water will depend on the potting medium. Bark retains less water than moss. If your phal is potted in bark watering once a week is generally sufficient. If your plant is potted in moss, water when the top feels dry. The amount of light and heat your plant receives will also affect how soon your phal needs watering. Summer months will need more frequent watering, winter will need less. After a few watering, you will be able to tell by the weight of the pot whether or not it is time to water again. If in doubt, wait a day.

It is best to water in the morning. Place the plant in the sink and use tepid water. Do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so. Be sure to let the plant drain completely.

If any water remains in the crown (where the leaves join in the center) use a paper towel to blot the water to avoid crown rot.

Light
Phalaenopsis are ‘low’ light orchids. They grow beautifully in an east window and can be grown in a south or west window if protected by a sheer curtain. A phal’s leaves should be olive green. If they are darker it means the plant is not getting enough light; red tinged leaves mean the plant is getting too much light. Once the plant is in bloom you can place it anywhere in your home out of direct sunlight. If your plant does not re-bloom, increase the amount of light that it receives.

Continue watering and fertilizing while waiting for the blooming cycle to begin!

Temperature
Phals are easy to grow because they enjoy the same temperatures we do – above 60º F at night and a range of 70º F to 80º F or higher during the day. 95º F is the maximum temperature recommendation. Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

Fertilizer
Any balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20, etc.) can be used to fertilize your orchid. Feeding weakly (half strength) weekly works well. Once a month, use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix.

POT MUM

SPACING
Pot mums must be properly spaced at all times or quality suffers. Spacing is generally determined by the desired finish plant size. Ideal spacing would have the plants just touching when the desired finish height is reached.
PHOTOPERIODIC LIGHTING
Pot mums generally require night lighting during the initial portion of their growing schedule. This is the long-day portion of a pot mum crop. Long days are used to maintain vegetative growth and help determine overall finished plant size.
WATERING
Pot mums require a plentiful amount of water and fertilizer. For a strong root system, allow media to dry somewhat between irrigations, but do not allow the plants to wilt. Irrigate thoroughly, allowing for some leaching. Various methods of irrigation are used on pot mums including drip irrigation, ebb and flow benches, troughs and capillary mats. The majority of pot mums are watered with drip irrigation or sub-irrigation techniques. The use of automated irrigation systems is recommended. Automated systems tend to promote more uniform growth and reduce labor costs.
FERTILIZATION
Pot mums are heavy feeders, especially during their initial stages of growth. A pot mum fertilization program should begin as soon as the cuttings are planted or stuck. Constant liquid fertilization is recommended for pot mum production. If nonleaching fertilizer delivery systems are used, such as ebb and flow, flood floors, capillary mats, or troughs, the fertilization rate is often 25–50% lower to reduce soluble salt accumulation. Soil and foliar tests at regular intervals are recommended. Adjust fertilizer rate as needed to maintain recommended fertility levels.

Rosemary

Water rosemary plants evenly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to overwater.
Prune regularly so that plants won’t get lanky.
For fresh rosemary in the winter, grow the plant indoors in a pot (or take a cutting from an outdoor plant and keep a second indoors). Be sure to put it in bright light and protect it from cold drafts.
Rosemary that’s grown in the ground does not transplant to containers well, so consider growing it in a container that can be brought inside during the colder months.
Be sure to get cuttings or divide the plant for next season if it won’t survive winter in your area.

San Jose Juniper

San Jose Juniper will grow to be about 12 inches tall at maturity, with a spread of 5 feet. It tends to fill out right to the ground and therefore doesn’t necessarily require facer plants in front. It grows at a slow rate, and under ideal conditions can be expected to live for approximately 30 years.

This shrub should only be grown in full sunlight. It is very adaptable to both dry and moist growing conditions, but will not tolerate any standing water. It is not particular as to soil type or pH. It is highly tolerant of urban pollution and will even thrive in inner city environments. This is a selected variety of a species not originally from North America.

Spider HB

Light
The great thing about Spider plants: they can be placed almost anywhere in your home. From a brightly lit window or all the way on the other side of a room with a bright window. The main thing that they cannot handle is prolonged, direct, afternoon sunlight, as this could burn their leaves or cause pale growth. On the flip side, they will not have as robust growth if kept in very low light, and the colouring of the variegated varieties will not be very strong.

Watering
The low-maintenance track record of the Spider Plant continues! They are not very thirsty plants and it would be more detrimental to their health if they were to receive too much water, rather than too little. Allow your plant’s soil to mostly dry out before watering again, at least the top three-quarters of the plant can be dry before giving it another drink. If you are ever confused, your plant will communicate to you when it is thirsty – droopy or limp leaves, loss of vibrance of colour, or if it is often getting brown tips. As for the frequency of watering, that will depend on the light your plant is receiving, the warmth and humidity of your home, the size of the pot, as well as the pot that the plant is planted in. Generally, no two plants will be on the exact same watering frequency, as everyone’s home is different! Expect to water more often in the spring/summer months, when the days are longer, warmer, brighter and plants are actively growing, and less often in the winter months when the days are shorter, cooler, darker and plants are usually dormant. You should also expect to water a plant that is receiving higher light more often than the plant that is receiving lower light.

Humidity
Spider Plants are not too picky when it comes to humidity and temperature, if you’re comfortable, your plant is comfortable. That being said, as we have mentioned before, they are prone to brown, dry tips on the ends of their leaves, which can be an indicator of humidity issues. Even though they are just fine in the average home environment, they will appreciate a warm, humid environment, they are still tropical plants after all!

Fertilizing
For fertilizer, Spiders are not too picky and they really don’t need it that often, seeing as they grow quite easily. Fertilize every 2-3 weeks through the Spring and Summer months and then do not fertilize throughout the Winter. Following the directions, use a general-purpose, balanced houseplant fertilizer that any greenhouse, garden centre, or plant shop offers! Make sure the soil is damp before fertilizing, otherwise it could burn the roots. Finally, never fertilize a plant that is already stressed out (i.e. soaking wet, extremely dry, lost a lot of leaves, etc.), as this will only enhance the stress.

Yucca

Once placed in a sunny to partly shaded location indoors, yucca houseplant care is easy. When growing the yucca plant indoors, try to locate it in a partially shaded area of bright, but indirect light for better leaf color. Potted yucca plants may grow in full sun and flourish, but will often have browning tips or white, necrotic spots on the leaves.

Pruning:
Although technically not considered pruning, maintaining your plants by trimming dead or damaged leaves can be done at any time. Cutting the plant back to reduce its size should be done in early spring, right before the growing season.

Simply cut off the top portion of a trunk down to the desired size. This will leave a sparse trunk for a while, but new offsets should sprout from the cut point. However, this growth can sometimes be unpredictable. At this same time, offsets can be cut away, and replanted if desired.
For stemless rosette types, dead or damaged leaves along the bottom of the plant can be removed at any time to clean up the plant.
Flower stalks should be cut back to the base after flowering. Some people don’t care for the look of the flower stalk, and in that case, it can be cut down at any time, even before it blooms.

Soil:
Yuccas aren’t particular about the type of soil they live in, other than it must be well-draining to avoid rot.

Amendments & fertilizer:
Although yuccas truly thrive on neglect, a balanced liquid fertilizer can be applied monthly during spring and summer, and may be especially beneficial to yuccas grown indoors.

Watering:
Yuccas are extremely drought tolerant, but will look better with regular watering of about an inch per week during spring and summer, along with an occasional deep soaking. They’ll require less water over winter. Yellow leaves and/or soft roots can be a sign of overwatering.

Propagation:
New starts can be grown from offsets, root cuttings or seed. If propagating from offsets, remove them in spring, strip off any foliage, and plant. Water them well to start and keep them protected until roots are growing.Root cuttings can be taken in winter or spring from mature plants. Dig down and cut a 3-inch section from the existing root structure. Keep the cutting in a cool, dry place for a couple of days before planting. Place it in potting soil and in a location where it will receive indirect light. Roots should begin to grow in about three to four weeks.

Diseases and pests:
Although there are no serious insect or disease problems, cane borers, scale insects and fungal leaf spots can occur. Brown leaf spot can often be caused by overhead watering, so it’s always best to water at the base of the plant. Stem rot is one of the most common problems with yuccas, but can be avoided with well-draining soil.Due to their sharp and spiny nature, yuccas are deer resistant.

Yucca moths:
At night, yucca flowers emit a fragrance that attracts yucca moths. They’re vital contributors to the plant’s survival as their only pollinator. In return, yuccas are the only host plant for the moths. Most yucca moths have white wings that help them blend in with the blossoms they pollinate and then lay their eggs in. Their caterpillars feed on the seeds, but leave some behind so the plant can re-seed itself.